Friday, September 26, 2014

Slovenia & Croatia


Our AirBnB in Kopar
Although we have been back in Denver since early August  events, illness, and procrastination have kept us from posting to the blog until now, but we have been working on several posts to bring it up to date.  Here's the first.

After a great three week stay in Verona, we left on July 25th to spend a few days in Slovenia, Croatia and Austria before returning to Germany and catching our flight home from Frankfurt.

Slovenia coastline
Our first stop was Kopar, Slovenia--just four hours from Verona. The AirBnB apartment was out in the country, but the GPS got us pretty close, and with just a little help from a Slovenian farmer we were able to find it without getting completely lost.

In Rovinj
We only spent three days in Slovenia and certainly didn't get to explore the country in depth, but one thing that struck us during our visit is how completely different--both physically and culturally--the Slovenians are from the Italians. They were very hospitable and welcoming, but you cannot help noticing that they are not nearly as sophisticated as their Italian neighbors, although only a few kilometers and an invisible border separate them.

While in Slovenia, we took the opportunity to make a brief sortie into Croatia, with our destination being Rovinj (or Revigno in Italian).  The drive through the Istrian countryside was pretty unexciting.  We had hoped that the coastal road would take us along a scenic seaside, but for nearly two hours we barely glimpsed the sea.

Rovinj is situated on a small peninsula and has little parking, especially for visitors, so everyone has to park outside the city and walk the last kilometer or two, which we did.  As we left the parking lot, the skies opened, and everyone we passed on our walk into town was soaked to the skin, but, for once, we were prepared and our slickers and umbrellas kept us dry.

Sue selecting cheese at a man's doorstep


Rovinj was worth getting wet for, though; what a beautiful little gem of a town.  Described by some as the most Italian of all Croatian cities, it certainly reminded us of many of the Italian towns we have visited over the years, but it was very special in its own way.

As we walked into the town, Sue discovered a man who sold the most incredible truffle cheese.  She liked him immediately and in the course of just a few minutes they bonded. When she had the idea to ask him for a restaurant recommendation,  he directed us to his friend's tiny restaurant just a short distance down the street.

Dining at Dricastel
We had one of the best meals ever.  The restaurant, Driocastel, could have held no more than 20 customers, but we were the only guests. Between our basic Italian and the proprietor's halting English, we managed to communicate.  Her story is extraordinary: twenty years earlier, she had fled the fighting and wasteland of Zagreb and established this business in Rovinj. She made us feel so welcome and appreciated and the food she served was fantastic, especially the seafood risoto.


Rescue of Saint Euphemia's Sarcophagus 
We fell in love with the story of Saint Euphemia,  the city's patron saint, whose casket seems to have floated from Asia Minor and washed ashore at this Croatian seaside town.  She is thought to protect both residents of and visitors to Rovinj. Her casket rests in the cathedral at the town's highest point which affords a lovely view of  the town and the Adriatic.

View of the Adriatic from the Cathedral




We were able to spend only a few hours in Rovinj, but thought it one of the sweetest and most picturesque places we have visited, and we would really recommend it to anyone visiting Slovenia or the Istrian peninsula of Croatia.














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