A day in the life…or how it is in the "City of Fallen Women"

From our rooftop patio, under a red umbrella, taking in the warm breeze and gazing at the fantastic 17^th century San Francisco church’s dome and steeple, we can reflect on living in San Miguel de Allende (SMA) for a while.  This is a lovely place with which it is easy to fall in love after, say 24 hours.

It is called the City of Fallen Women because of the hazardous cobblestone streets, very narrow stone sidewalks and numerous holes in both which are never marked by orange cones or come with any warning.  Thus, many women you see have casts, braces, canes, etc.  You really have to watch your step.

To find negative things like that to say is kind of difficult.   SMA has been designated a World Heritage Cite by UNESCO and is quaint and photogenic.  It is often called “The Magical City” and it is.  The natives are very proud that Conde Nast voted it the best place in the world to visit last year, and this year several publications named it the best place to visit in Mexico. 

Magic, who can explain it?  Being here you feel happy.  Life is beautiful.  The pace is slow, the weather is fantastic, there are many cultural events to take part in, people are friendly (expats in particular) and the Mexicans are so very sweet and polite.  Even the beggar in front of our door, Rudolfo, wishes us a good day when we disturb him to go out or come in.  Of course having a beggar at your door takes some getting used to, but it’s all in the life here.  Live and let live.

Right next door to us is a green grocer with wonderful produce; very fresh and tasty.  We have to soak all fruits and vegetables in microdyne before cutting or eating them, but that is no big deal.  Next to the green grocer are the coffin makers—old men tapping away daily—who also sell handmade beeswax candles for about 50 US cents, which they carefully wrap in newspaper and scotch tape closed, stopping their work to do so.

Next to them is a small grocery store which has just about everything we might need:  dry goods, dairy, deli meats and cheeses, and household necessities:  It’s like having a huge pantry downstairs.  Prices there are pretty inexpensive—what we might pay $100 US for comes to, maybe, $40 US here.  And they take credit cards.

Next is a “carnitas” shop:  A tiny hole in the wall where a man roasts a small pig daily and sells the meat.  It is delicious!  After that a few "tiendas" selling watches, used TVs and other electronics, kids school supplies and another green grocer.  And last but not least, a great butcher shop. Around the corner is a small liquor store where, Mario, the owner always greets you with a big, warm smile and lots of advice about wine, tequila, etc.

Throughout SMA there are shops filled with colorful artisan crafts and clothes, objects made of tin, brass or silver, hand made jewelry, masks, antiques, etc.  Each one seems to beckon you to come in.  In addition there are many, many tiny restaurants and some huge ones, bakeries, candy stores, ice cream shops—all wafting out the most wonderful aromas. Life doesn’t get much more convenient in terms of food, drink and window-shopping (or wandering in to look at the variety of goods sold).

For entertainment, we check the daily listings in the local paper, Atencion, which has a pull-out section in English and Spanish listing the day’s offerings.  Normally you can choose from 15 or so activities:  from lectures, films, art gallery exhibits, museums, tours, language classes, music, dance presentations, spa offerings, exercise or yoga classes and on and on.  Also featured are restaurants, homes for sale, which are fun to look at, and volunteer opportunities.  What a cornucopia of stuff to choose from.  We sometimes exhaust ourselves doing too much.

Today we had a fun breakfast Christmas celebration with Larry’s language class.  The teacher had the students write notes about one another and it created a good feeling to hear each student read the nice things his fellow students (and teachers) said about him or her.  Better than exchanging gifts!

The other evening we strolled through the streets with a  “posada”:  A flat bed truck with children portraying Mary, Joseph and an angel in a palm strewn setting.  Behind the truck strolled musicians playing the same song over and over and over with small children behind them singing the song over and over and over.  Then came the group of adults completing the procession.  

From some rooftops people threw bags of candy.  The posada represents Mary and Joseph looking for an inn (posada).  It finally comes to a stop at one of the churches in town, which is prepared to serve hot chocolate and have huge piñatas for the kids to burst.

During the day a couple days ago, there was a procession of heavily feathered, Aztec-dressed Indians dancing rhythmically to the beat of several drums.  Brightly dressed and masked people followed, each with a long robe and a big tall hat.  Who knows what they were to represent, but it was colorful and interesting.

Music is almost always in the air, from mariachis to what they call "estudiantinas" or tunas—bands consisting of mostly stringed instruments  (not as blaring as the mariachis) who play and sing wonderful Mexican folk music. Last night we stumbled across our favorite group, Tuna Real, serenading a bridal party.  We have not seen them as much this year as last, but when we do, we always enjoy them.

We attended a lecture about Mexican music where the teacher went through each decade since the 40’s enumerating the changes in musical styles.  The traditional has now been replaced for the young by US music since it is so ubiquitous.  Kind of sad.

Another lecture we found interesting was about migrating monarch butterflies which winter in a small town close to SMA, some of them coming all the way from Canada, and all of them female.  We learned that the males die immediately after mating with the female who soon lays 200-400 eggs and then takes off. 

This afternoon we plan to see a movie in the “Pocket Theater” which serves a drink (alcoholic or non) and a small bag of popcorn with each ticket.  Tonight we will go to the local performing arts theater and listen to a Cuban quartet.

A stroll through the Jardin, or central plaza, is always a treat morning, noon or night to see families enjoying themselves:  kids often chasing pigeons, parents often buying plastic toys for toddlers to pull around, young people smooching, and old people (like us) resting.  Sometimes there is dancing in the gazebo in the center of the park.  Always there is someone or some groups playing music of some kind.  It is a great place to relax and people watch. This time of the year, there is a beautiful "nacimiento" or manger scene with live sheep and goats.

As the bells chime now, it reminds us of the primary sound in SMA.  Bells, bells, bells, bells, bells, bells.  (E.A. Poe must have been here.)  With over 36 Catholic churches and a few monasteries, someone, somewhere is very often calling people to prayer or chiming the time of day.  Religion is very important here and people are very respectful of the church.

We went to the central market the other day and found a huge, flower filled altar-like tribute to the two most recent popes.  As people walked by, even tiny children, they would stop, bow their heads and make the sign of the cross.

Well, you may be able to get a feel for SMA.  It is surely worth a visit and we would love to show it to you.  Our friend, Susie Morgan, has been here since the beginning of December and has said, “You know, coming here I felt like I was coming home.”  It is that kind of a place!

"Fleece" Navidad to all of our friends & family.  

Mexico City Weekend

Lost in an Oz of Penises

At the end of November, we returned to Mexico City for a fun-filled and busy weekend in the Mexican capital.  Getting there involves a four hour bus ride, but fortunately bus travel in Mexico can be very comfortable in a first class bus, with reclining seats and a video to while away the time.

During our last visit, we found a hotel, El Ejecutivo, that was comfortable, affordable and just a five minute walk from our friend Carole's apartment--a recommendation for those thinking of visiting the DF.

Carole had wanted us to come early enough on Friday, to be able to visit the Tamayo Contemporary Art Museum.  She had visited it earlier,  and intrigued by an exhibit, "Infinite Obsession", featuring a Japanese artist, Yayoi Kusama, she wanted to make sure we saw it.  We are so glad we were able to do so.

Kusama was born in Japan in 1929 but by the mid-sixties was finding the Japanese art world and culture restrictive and anti-feminist, so she moved to the United States where she felt the climate and art world were more open and welcoming. (One of our favorite quotes from the author is "discovering polka dots was so freein

Carole & Sue

Much of Kusama's art is focused on the naked human body, and she uses the penis in a lot of her works.  It sounds strange and is hard to describe, but in person it can be amusing, thought provoking, and certainly makes you smile.

We were intrigued by a number of installations in the exhibit, especially one in which she used mirrors and strings of small, spherical lights to create a sense of the infinite. The lights cycle through a range of colors that changes the effect and affect on the viewer. Like we said, hard to describe, but very interesting to experience.  If you have the opportunity to see Kusama's art, don't pass it up.

Saturday was devoted to the New York Metropolitan Opera's "Opera in Cinema" presentation; Carol and we are big fans of the "Live in HD" broadcasts. When we are in Denver, we try not to miss one.  There are several venues across Mexico City offering the operas, but Carol prefers the Auditoria Nacional, a huge venue that can seat more than 10,000 spectators. One of the best reasons to see the opera at the Auditoria Nacional is that each performance is preceded by a lecture by Sergio Vela;  we have attended two of his lectures and Carol and Fernando (a friend of hers who writes reviews for Auditoria National) do not miss them.  Erudite and knowledgeable about opera and music in general, his lectures add a whole new dimension to the performance.  Fortunately, his Spanish is so clear that, even for us, the lectures are worthwhile.

For this performance of Rossini's "The Barber of Seville", the auditorium was about 1/3 filled.  We all enjoyed the performance--comfortable seats, giant screen with easy to read subtitles, and great sound. Intermissions are punctuated with interviews with the principal singers or a look backstage, adding to the overall impact of the performance.

These broadcasts really make opera accessible and affordable, and the Met is of course one of the world's great opera companies.

Our Sunday was completely different but equally diverting.  Carol and Fernando are aficionados of the Corrida, or Bullfight; they attend almost all of them offered in the Plaza de Mexico, the world's largest bullfight ring, and invited us to accompany them.

We know little of the sport and ritual and would not probably attend on our own, but going with Carol and Fernando makes it a real cultural and educational outing. Bullfighting is, of course, a controversial activity and many are adamantly opposed to the sport. But it is also a sport, rich in cultural history; and watching the matadors or toreros risk their lives in a one-on-one match with a 500 pound bull is intriguing and often thrilling spectacle.

On this Sunday afternoon, we watched the inaugural appearance of a 20-year old Mexican man whose father and grandfather before him had been matadors--he was awarded an ear for his skill, bravery and ability to control the bull, a nice and hopefully propitious start to a long career.

The other matadors were a Spaniard and a Mexican, both veterans. The Spaniard was awarded two ears--at the insistence of the crowd--after his third bout--his first two bulls having proved to be not very good fighters. We enjoyed our afternoon at the bullring; and were among very few gringos in attendance.

Sue, Carole & Fernando

We are so very thankful that our trips to Mexico have enabled us to meet and get to know our now good friend, Carole Reedy.  Mart & Bob, who have known Carole for more than 40 years introduced us last year, but we feel like we have been friends forever.

She is a wonderful host and tour guide.  She loves Mexico and especially Mexico City--so much so that she became a Mexican citizen last year.  She is always up for a visit from friends and even friends of friends. Her birthday and our 44th wedding anniversary coincided with our visit this time; it was a great way to celebrate and reconnect.  Thanks Carole!!!!!

After our wonderful afternoon at the Corrida, we finished up our day at a new restaurant on Reforma, El Diez.  una parilla argentina, or Argentine Grill, we feasted on an incredibly delicious arrachera (marinated flank steak), french fries or papas fritas, and a great, but inexpensive bottle of Malbec. Highly recommended for meat lovers. A perfect ending to a perfect day and weekend.