Mexico City Weekend

Lost in an Oz of Penises

At the end of November, we returned to Mexico City for a fun-filled and busy weekend in the Mexican capital.  Getting there involves a four hour bus ride, but fortunately bus travel in Mexico can be very comfortable in a first class bus, with reclining seats and a video to while away the time.

During our last visit, we found a hotel, El Ejecutivo, that was comfortable, affordable and just a five minute walk from our friend Carole's apartment--a recommendation for those thinking of visiting the DF.

Carole had wanted us to come early enough on Friday, to be able to visit the Tamayo Contemporary Art Museum.  She had visited it earlier,  and intrigued by an exhibit, "Infinite Obsession", featuring a Japanese artist, Yayoi Kusama, she wanted to make sure we saw it.  We are so glad we were able to do so.

Kusama was born in Japan in 1929 but by the mid-sixties was finding the Japanese art world and culture restrictive and anti-feminist, so she moved to the United States where she felt the climate and art world were more open and welcoming. (One of our favorite quotes from the author is "discovering polka dots was so freein

Carole & Sue

Much of Kusama's art is focused on the naked human body, and she uses the penis in a lot of her works.  It sounds strange and is hard to describe, but in person it can be amusing, thought provoking, and certainly makes you smile.

We were intrigued by a number of installations in the exhibit, especially one in which she used mirrors and strings of small, spherical lights to create a sense of the infinite. The lights cycle through a range of colors that changes the effect and affect on the viewer. Like we said, hard to describe, but very interesting to experience.  If you have the opportunity to see Kusama's art, don't pass it up.

Saturday was devoted to the New York Metropolitan Opera's "Opera in Cinema" presentation; Carol and we are big fans of the "Live in HD" broadcasts. When we are in Denver, we try not to miss one.  There are several venues across Mexico City offering the operas, but Carol prefers the Auditoria Nacional, a huge venue that can seat more than 10,000 spectators. One of the best reasons to see the opera at the Auditoria Nacional is that each performance is preceded by a lecture by Sergio Vela;  we have attended two of his lectures and Carol and Fernando (a friend of hers who writes reviews for Auditoria National) do not miss them.  Erudite and knowledgeable about opera and music in general, his lectures add a whole new dimension to the performance.  Fortunately, his Spanish is so clear that, even for us, the lectures are worthwhile.

For this performance of Rossini's "The Barber of Seville", the auditorium was about 1/3 filled.  We all enjoyed the performance--comfortable seats, giant screen with easy to read subtitles, and great sound. Intermissions are punctuated with interviews with the principal singers or a look backstage, adding to the overall impact of the performance.

These broadcasts really make opera accessible and affordable, and the Met is of course one of the world's great opera companies.

Our Sunday was completely different but equally diverting.  Carol and Fernando are aficionados of the Corrida, or Bullfight; they attend almost all of them offered in the Plaza de Mexico, the world's largest bullfight ring, and invited us to accompany them.

We know little of the sport and ritual and would not probably attend on our own, but going with Carol and Fernando makes it a real cultural and educational outing. Bullfighting is, of course, a controversial activity and many are adamantly opposed to the sport. But it is also a sport, rich in cultural history; and watching the matadors or toreros risk their lives in a one-on-one match with a 500 pound bull is intriguing and often thrilling spectacle.

On this Sunday afternoon, we watched the inaugural appearance of a 20-year old Mexican man whose father and grandfather before him had been matadors--he was awarded an ear for his skill, bravery and ability to control the bull, a nice and hopefully propitious start to a long career.

The other matadors were a Spaniard and a Mexican, both veterans. The Spaniard was awarded two ears--at the insistence of the crowd--after his third bout--his first two bulls having proved to be not very good fighters. We enjoyed our afternoon at the bullring; and were among very few gringos in attendance.

Sue, Carole & Fernando

We are so very thankful that our trips to Mexico have enabled us to meet and get to know our now good friend, Carole Reedy.  Mart & Bob, who have known Carole for more than 40 years introduced us last year, but we feel like we have been friends forever.

She is a wonderful host and tour guide.  She loves Mexico and especially Mexico City--so much so that she became a Mexican citizen last year.  She is always up for a visit from friends and even friends of friends. Her birthday and our 44th wedding anniversary coincided with our visit this time; it was a great way to celebrate and reconnect.  Thanks Carole!!!!!

After our wonderful afternoon at the Corrida, we finished up our day at a new restaurant on Reforma, El Diez.  una parilla argentina, or Argentine Grill, we feasted on an incredibly delicious arrachera (marinated flank steak), french fries or papas fritas, and a great, but inexpensive bottle of Malbec. Highly recommended for meat lovers. A perfect ending to a perfect day and weekend.