Sayulita

Downtown Sayulia

Sayulita, Nayarit, Mexico

Our driving trip from Ajijic (central Mexico) to Sayulita (on the Pacific coast) was thankfully uneventful; the highways, especially the toll roads, are well maintained, and not that heavily traveled.

We were surprised, however, that the last 75 miles of this main highway to the Nayarit Riviera and Puerto Vallarta, two huge tourist attractions luring millions of visitors every year, are a two lane, twisty mountain road, where it is almost impossible to pass--except the Mexicans seem to enjoy trying.

Shade Bathers

Sayulita--is certainly a tourist town--but not at all like its high rise, Miami-like neighbors, especially PuertoVallarta. With only about 4000 permanent inhabitants and an equal number of tourists, it retains much of the 1980's hippie, drop out ambience. Flip flops and shorts are the norm.

Many of the streets are dirt or, at best, cobble stone, one-way lanes, with the preferred mode of transportation being electric golf carts, although there are far too many cars, like so many other places.  It definitely caters to tourists--with equal portions of young families with children, senior citizens, and surfers.

There are a wide variety of beaches, within walking or golf cart distance.  Several we visited are nearly deserted. The town's main beach is fairly crowded, but never overwhelming so.

The terrace of our AirBNB rental, Casa Calibri, (Hummingbird)

It is somewhat protected, with more of a gradual drop-off and gentler waves.  The water temperature was just about perfect.

When in January we decided to visit the coast, we were able to find an apartment described as comfortable and spacious and close to town, just a five minute walk, with a nice view of the ocean. It had good reviews, so we agreed to rent it.  We were not only not disappointed, we were enthralled.

Garden at Casa Calibri and view to the Bay in the distance

Always wine and dominoes at night

Casa Calibri was all that it was advertised and more.  It sits on a steep hill, overlooking the town with a great view of the Pacific.  The gardens are beautiful and attract all kinds of birds and butterflies. Several mornings we were awakened by a giant woodpecker!

The bedrooms were large and comfortable and the showers were great.  The terrace, where we practically lived, was inviting at all hours--mornings and evenings. Many afternoons we watched the sunset and changing light and then finished with a couple of rounds of dominoes.

Dave and Joan, our hosts, were attentive, but non-intrusive.  Their suggestions for restaurants and activities were all spot-on. Restaurants in town run the gamut, with a few even offering a white table cloth, upscale experience.

Giant margarita

Bob at El Costeno

But we tended to like the smaller, funkier places.  Our favorite bar/restaurant, to which we returned almost every afternoon, was El Costeno.
Known for its reasonably priced giant margaritas and micheladas (beer, lime juice and clamato juice--you have to taste it to appreciate it), El Costeno was always a welcome destination after a few hours on the beach or exploring the area.

An open-air palapa roofed and seemingly flimsy structure, El Costeno sits right on the beach, just 100 feet from the water. The daily happy hour (4:00 to 6:00) means the drinks are even more affordable and the bar is very popular.

Buying hammocks after a couple margaritas

Bob, Mart and Sue sipping margaritas

There is always a constant stream of customers and vendors.  Several of whom, we couldn't resist--including a sweet older couple who were selling handmade hammocks--both Mart and Bob and we ended up buying one, even though we are not quite sure what we will do with it in our condo.

Many of the vendors were children selling toys and other handcrafts.  Since you see them at all hours of the day and evening, you are pretty sure that many of them unfortunately do not attend school.

El Costeno's food could be good to excellent--one night we had a wonderful grilled red snapper with garlic sauce; the second time we ordered it, however, it was overdone, well, almost burnt--but we still ate it all.

The Alley Cat

 We really enjoyed our entire stay in Sayulita.  The relaxed environment and near perfect weather makes it easy to while away your days, and if you wanted to be entertained, there was plenty to see and do.

Mart getting her drink from the head of the Cabin Boy

Our favorite excursion was an all day catamaran cruise aboard the Alley Cat, in the Bahia de Banderas, said to be the 7th largest bay in the world. Our trip began with a short bus ride from the town to a nearby port, Santa Cruz.

Sue, ready to dive

Once aboard, we were waited on hand and foot (literally) and treated to a delightful and interesting day of water activities, including snorkeling, swimming, kayaking and paddle boarding.

You are served both breakfast and lunch; drinks are free and bottomless. It was a great treat just to sit on the front of the boat and watch the water and the horizon as you sail along.

Our jumping Mama whale

Sea birds of all kinds often flew around us and many times we came across schools of fish, roiling and churning up the water--which of course attracted even more hungry, squawking  birds.

Perhaps the highlight of the cruise, however, was on our way back to port when the captain was able to bring us to within 100 yards or less of a mother and baby humpback whale.  The mother was teaching the calf to breach and jump out of the water--a truly spectacular sight.

The calves are born in the bay during early spring and the mothers and babies stay there for several months until the calf is strong enough to make the arduous trip back to Alaska.

How silly can you get???

Sailing into the harbor, the crew break out funny hats and distribute them to willing passengers--then they lead everyone in the Macarena as you come into port--to finish what for us was a near perfect day.

Sayulita was a wonderful interlude in what has been a tremendous five months stay in Mexico-- we are already planning our return next winter, who wouldn't be?   We always welcome visitors, so join us in paradise !

Sue saying goodbye to Bouy, so named because he floats easily