Coyoacan & San Angel

We have been so busy traveling and touring, or trying to rest up and recharge that we have not had the time or energy to sit down and write, although there is much that we have seen and done that we would like to share with you.

After our return to Mexico City from San Miguel, we took a day to relax and catch up with the laundry—something all travelers have to do, but something that seldom shows up in the travel guides. (Larry also had to lick his wounds—he left his iPad on the bus—something that he always feared, so now that it has happened, that fear is out of the way. ) I (Larry) felt really stupid and boneheaded.  Erin used all of her skills to try and help us retrieve it, but to no avail—but it is now behind us and only marred the trip for a short while.)

Portraits of Frida seem to be everywhere.

Erin had suggested two Mexico City neighborhoods that we should not miss—the first being, Coyoacan, where Frido Kahlo and Diego Rivera lived and worked. Rosalio, Erin’s friendly cab driver aka Mexican Dad, drove us & the trip was pleasant though a very short drive took about 30 minutes.  The trip back was nearly three times that—traffic in Mexico City is always bad, but on Friday afternoon (as this was) it’s a nightmare, but we are getting ahead of our story.  Sorry to keep whining about MC traffic, but it is one of the most prevalent things about the city—just astounding, really.

The Frida Kahlo House (Casa Azul) was a delight and very enlightening for us.  Frida is a Mexican icon (her picture is on one side of the 500 hundred peso note—and Diego Rivera’s is on the reverse.) She contracted polio when she was six, and although she survived, it affected her right leg which did not develop as well as her left.  Then when she was 18, she was riding in a bus when it was struck by an electric tram.  She was very badly injured, had to have 32 separate operations and wore a special corset the rest of her life.  The greatest tragedy, however, for her was that as a result of the accident and the operations, she was never able to have children—and this along with her fierce Mexican identity, was a recurring theme in her work.  She died very young at the age of 47.

Inside Casa Azul--looking up at Frida's studio

A Pyramid within the garden at Casa Azul--reflecting Frida's great love for Mexican history

 We learned so much at Casa Azul—about Frida, Diego, and the political and artistic ideas of the 1920’s, 30’s, and 40’s.  Both Rivera and Kahlo were committed communists, although as friends of Leon Trotsky (whose Coyoacan home in exile we also visited) they opposed Joseph Stalin.  We loved being able to walk through their houses, seeing their furniture, furnishings, and art—it was a step back in time to another era and a worldview totally alien to us. In the end, we came away with a great admiration for Frida as an individual and an artist.

 You get less of a look into Diego Rivera and his art at Casa Azul, but we are still hoping to see some more of his works, especially his murals, in some other places in Mexico City—and not to take away from Frida’s talents, Diego’s works resonate more with us.

After touring the Casa Azul and the Trotsky House, it was time for lunch. As we walked back to Coyoacan’s central plaza, we came across a large, bustling market.  We had looked at the menus of several restaurants as we walked along the way, but nothing appealed to us—however,  we were immediately attracted to the market and most especially a “Marisqueria” or seafood restaurant outside it.  Not really knowing what we would get when we ordered “fried fish” and a shrimp empanada—we had a wonderful, filling lunch.  A special added treat was listening to a very good “Norteno” trio (two guitars and a violin playing Tex-Mex music) serenade us (after which it is proper to offer some pesos if you like them, which we did, very much).

 An after lunch tour of the market, which reminded us a lot of Reading Terminal Market in Philadelphia, with, of course, a Mexican twist—including lots of skeletons and skulls as the Mexicans are really gearing up for the Day of the Dead celebration--was very rewarding and fun.

Everyone in Mexico seems to be getting ready for Day of the Dead celebration

 We then walked back to the Plaza Central:  a word about central plazas.  As you know, most Spanish villages have them—a tree filled, bench filled, usually fountain centered place of tranquility from which the town/city grows outward.   We have come to love this feature.  Most cities or towns have a lot of noise and heat—traffic, music, “greeters” (i.e., a person standing outside every store and restaurant urging you to come inside), destitute people (often tiny children which breaks your heart) approaching you for donations in a cup, and especially the blazing sun—that these oases of cool and calm are just a gift.  Not to mention the best people watching places you can find.

After resting in Plaza Central, we hurried to meet Rosalio, who was as punctual as always, but as we said earlier our return trip home lasted nearly 1-½ hours in the worst of Mexico City traffic.

Larry & Erin at the San Angel Hacienda

On the following day, Larry and Erin had a special “father/daughter” bonding day in San Angel while Sue rested her still healing knee.  So much walking takes a lot of energy and a day of R&R for her is necessary at least once a week.  San Angel’s Saturday market is one of Erin’s favorite MC activities.  Street after street, park after after park are filled with artists—some good some, well… She seldom buys anything, but is always on the lookout for something unique and interesting.  Our day started with a great breakfast at the San Angel Hacienda, part of which dates from the early 18^th century.  Now an Inn and restaurant, it is truly beautiful, especially its flower filled gardens. Next to the hacienda is another Rivera/Kahlo shrine—their house/studio.  (if you saw the Frida movie with Selma Hayak—both the Casa Azul and the house/studio were featured in it.)

Erin in front of the Rivera/Kahlo House Studio in San Angel

 After touring the house/studio we strolled the streets and parks and stopped in at countless shops and tiendas, many featuring beautiful native art and artisan works.  Our afternoon culminated with a wonderful lunch that offered a super “Cuban band” in addition to great Mexican food.  As our table was next to the sidewalk, we were continuously offered bargains and “one of a kind treasures” by the strolling vendors.  We succumbed and made a couple of purchases—Erin bought some tiny cactus plants in equally tiny clay jars and Larry bought a couple of hand carved book marks.  Erin and Larry had a great day and Sue equally enjoyed her day of rest.