Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Rome to Home

Our last week in Italy was spent in Rome.  Once again we used AIRBNB to book a place to stay—this time with Gianpiero, who lives in a Roman suburb called Labaro—an ancient settlement in its own right, but now a bedroom community for the big city.  Gianpiero, a divorced father of two grown sons, lives by himself in a two car garage that he has made over into a small two bedroom house—and the operative word is small.  Still our bedroom and bed were quite comfortable, and Gianpiero was a good host and a super Rome booster.

With Gianpiero as our guide, we saw some wonderful things in Rome, like Ostia Antica, which we had never heard of before.  It is the old port and is about as well preserved as Pompey without all the lava and tourists.  It was very, very interesting and we managed to spend all day there.

Oh the crowds in Rome!
On another day we went back to the Borghese Gallery that we had visited on previous trips to Italy and drooled over a couple Bernini sculptures and tried to take in the gazillion pieces of fine art.  The collection belongs to the state now, but was created by a greedy Cardinal who was not very nice about how he got the paintings and sculptures he craved.  Even had some people killed so he could get his hands on their stuff.  Nice guy.

The last gelato
Our final day we took a nostalgic walk thru Rome—revisited some of the "not to be missed sights, like the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain, and had our very last gelato—now, that was a sad milestone! Our Italian sojourn lasted from March 1 through May 30—91 days. We overstayed our tourist visa by one day, and that can get you barred from traveling to Italy for as much as five years, but fortunately, nobody seemed to notice or mind.

Our plane trip home was long—about 18 hours door to door, Rome to Atlanta, with a change in London.  British Airways treated us fairly well, but are a little schizophrenic about carry-on baggage, with the size limit smaller than we are used to on domestic flights.  We got into a little tussle with a woman at the London airport about a bag we had carried on in Rome and wanted to continue with it as carry on luggage.  She said we had to check it; we flatly refused and told her we just alighted from a BA plane and were boarding another and it fit in the overhead.  We won!  “Next time, I won’t allow it”, she says.  Next time?  How often do we fly through London?

Larry, his Mom, Carlie & his sisters Glenda & Sandy
We flew to Atlanta to give us the opportunity to visit with Larry’s family, most of whom live in North Georgia these days.  His Mom, who will be 85 this July, is fortunately very healthy and lives by herself.  We got to see each of his siblings and many of our nieces and nephews. A big treat for us both was seeing 10 months old Art (Glenn & Garland Ryder’s son and Larry’s sister Sandy’s grandson); he is such a Zen baby and a delight to hold and cuddle.

After a four-day visit, we started on a three-day, 1600-mile driving trek to Denver.  On our first day, June 2nd, we stopped for a quick lunch and visit with Rob Roschy, Sue’s nephew, who manages a Mangionne’s Little Italy Restaurant in Nashville. We spent our first night in Eastern Missouri and the second in central Kansas.  The American countryside can be every bit as beautiful and interesting as the Italian, although the billboards can be quite ugly and distracting. We were surprised at the lovely rolling hills in both Missouri and Kansas. 

Late in the afternoon of our second day, we stopped for a short visit to the Kansas State History Museum in Topeka—and regret that we had only one hour or so to look around before closing. Since neither of us knew anything about Kansas or its history, it was really lots of fun and educational—we highly recommend it. For a small local museum, it was incredibly well organized and very interactive.

Kansas Wind Farm
In central Kansas, we marveled as we drove through huge wind farms; giant wind turbines relief from the franchises found all along the interstate that seemed to march across the plains for many, many miles. Another recommendation that we might make for cross country travelers—get off the interstate for a few minutes and explore some of the little towns—we found a couple of really great local restaurants.

Still jetlagged and pretty road weary after three days driving, we arrived in Denver on May 5th, hoping to settle into the apartment we had booked on AIRBNB.  Shock!!! Not only was the place difficult to access through an on-going remodeling and reconstruction of the front yard and path to the house, it was really quite dirty.  In addition, there was no dresser in the bedroom, and dollar store plastic plates, cups, etc., a popcorn popper and one small sauce pan were the entire kitchen.  Worse yet, the owner lived downstairs and was totally crazy. We got what we thought was her entire life story in 15 minutes as she babbled to us upon arrival; then got more and more for the two days we stayed there as she brought up for us several totally useless items from her kitchen to stock ours. 

 We knew quickly that we could not stay there for a month; said we were leaving and fought with her over giving us our money back.  We had stayed two days and had prepayed for the entire month.  Probably the worst experience of our entire trip.  Only “Freddie, everyone knows me” in the Galapagos could match it. Oh, well all trips must have their ups and downs.  The good news for us was that with threatening to write a scathing review of her “furnished apartment” on AIRBNB, she caved and refunded us for the remaining 28 days.

The part we want to remember is what she brought upstairs to stock our severely understocked kitchen. Here goes:  One filthy sandwich grill; two dirty cookie sheets encrusted, possibly for weeks, with bacon grease; two dirty cake pans; a basket put together like a “gift” (fake grass inside) containing such useful things as a hand potato masher, a rolling pin, rubber cupcake baking liners, a meat thermometer, a grapefruit cutter, a garlic press, four, count them, four sets of measuring cups and measuring spoons, an ice cream scoop and several unidentifiable objects that might have been useful to serve cheese.

Erin & Bryn
Fortunately for us, Grant’s parents had rented an apartment starting June 1st, but will not arrive in Denver until June 28th.  Their goods and chattle preceded them by professional movers.  They offered to let us stay for free, since we would have to sort through a lot of moving boxes, unpack what we needed to use and it has no TV or Internet. We are here; we have kitchen things; we have a comfortable bed.  Bought a couple towels and sheets so we wouldn’t have to keep unpacking.  We are good to go now with no crazy lady downstairs with total access to our apartment.

Sue, Bryn, Charlie &Larry
The lovely, bright spot in all this, of course is Charlie, along with Bryn, Grant and Erin (who is here on home leave for the month of June.)  It is a joy to be with them and a luxury to see them almost every day. We were all together at Bryn and Grant’s to celebrate Father’s Day—along with many from Grant’s family.  We are settling in nicely here in Denver.  We will be here through July 4th and then we head off to DC for the month of July.  We will return to Denver for a longer stay in August. But we are already planning and thinking about the next places we want to visit.

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