Two for the Road: Love, Italian Style

View from Poggio looking to Florence

The movies always told us that when you come to Italy you will find love. They were right! We found love…an entire family, as a matter of fact, the Becattinis.

We stumbled upon them last year by renting one of their hillside apartments in Poggio alla Croce. By staying a month we got to know them very well. Last year we were sad to leave them, as we had had a most wonderful month.

Sunset from our apartment, Il Castagno

Poggio is a tiny hamlet perched high atop a mountain with a distant view of Florence. In the daytime you cannot tell Florence is out there somewhere; you just see beautiful rolling hills and mountains, some with typical Italian villas dotting the landscape.

Poggio all Croce

But at night, Florence gleams like a giant diamond. Between the peaks in front of you twinkle a gazillion lights; it is a breathtaking sight.

During the day there is usually a soft breeze blowing and you hear hardly a sound except birds and the occasional rooster crowing. The Becattinis keep their numerous properties (they own the local restaurant, a couple apartment houses and their own homes) in picture perfect condition.

Giancarla & Rina

Giancarla and Rina love plants so there are numerous gardens and pots of all kinds of flowers blooming. Dario loves tomatoes, so his little garden beneath our windows is full of a variety of tomato plants.

The loggia they have constructed to take in the breeze and view has comfortable couches and chairs, a hammock and a couple tables with chairs. An afternoon drink tastes even better sipped in the loggia.

But the place is not the heart of the matter. The family is. The most vivacious member is Danilo, the Chef. His infectious smile, unstoppable energy and zest for every single day fills you with joy just to see him.

His wife, Giancarla, is equally charismatic; a beautiful woman with a sweet, sweet nature—she is a preschool teacher after all— who complements Danilo perfectly. And their handsome and serious son, Lorenzo, who is the spitting image of Danilo, and who also has an amazing winning smile, makes you want to hug him the minute you lay eyes on him.

Il Cuoco, Danilo

The older generation, Giancarla’s parents, Rina and Dario, round out the charm factor. Both full of love and good will, always with bright, happy smiles, twinkling eyes and ready hugs. How could you not fall in love?

Giancarla with Stefania's art

We have taken several of Danilo’s cooking classes, alone and with a number of our visiting friends. Every single person comes away having had a wonderful, fun experience and has learned a lot about making pasta.

Last year and for many years before, the family ran their restaurant full time, but this year they have stopped. Now for friends or guests only will they prepare food or conduct cooking classes.

One of Danilo's creations

The business became too exhausting for everyone—Rina is 83 and was still working hard in the kitchen, as was Giancarla, who also held down a full time job. Lorenzo was the waiter (and he now has a new job with Prada) and Dario the barkeep. Danilo, too, is always very busy keeping up their enormous property. He loved the restaurant but realized it was exhausting the entire family. A good decision was made to cut back.

Rina & Danilo playing dominoes

This year we stayed only one week and were treated to getting to know their good friend, Antonella, who quickly felt like one of the family as well.

We taught Danilo and Rina to play Dominoes and had a good time every day playing together. We went to a lovely exhibition of Giancarla’s best friend’s, Stefania's art show. She has never had a lesson and paints "what is in a woman's soul”.

Becattini Family

One evening we made an “American dinner” for the family and it will be a meal we will long remember. What fun to have them all come to our little apartment and treat them to meat loaf, potatoes, squash and carrots.

Again this year we were sad to leave, but know we will return. Maybe not next year, but soon again. We told them it felt like leaving paradise—Poggio is so beautiful and they are so full of love and fun. How can we stay away?

COOKING AND DINING WITH DANILO

It has been a great joy to introduce our friends to Danilo and all of the Becattinis--many have had the pleasure of learning some basic Italian cooking from Danilo and all of us have delighted in his creations and mastery.