Two for the Road: Return to Siena

For the sixth time since 2000, we have returned to Siena--the heart of Tuscany--and truly one of our favorite places. Once again, we are staying at Casabella, the farm house owned by our landlady and now friend, Marzia Caselli.

This time we are accompanied by six good friends: Mart & Bob Larson, Steve Clagett and Jennifer Parker, Carole Reedy and Blythe Tennent--good friends and great traveling companions. We will be here for the next month or so.

Casabella is a 19th century structure, originally occupied by Marzia’s husband’s farming family, but renovated by Reno’s with modern conveniences, like the swimming pool and now rented out to visitors like us who love the Tuscan countryside and are looking for a place for a Tuscan idyll--and Casabella doesn’t fail to provide.

Casabella is just outside the village of Sovicille, about five miles from the city of Siena--our favor ite Tuscan city.

During one of our last visit we met a young American ex-pat, Anna Piperato, who now, among other things, works as a guide for Rick Steves. She graciously agreed to give us an introductory tour of Siena, despite having a chock ablock full schedule.

Our friends, like us, were all entranced by Anna and her wonderful stories of Siena, including all about the Palio and her adopted contrada, Lupa.

We were all surprised at the number of tourists we encountered in Siena.

We have visited many times in the past, but not during what seems to be the height of the tourist season--how did we miss that?

Anna did her best to steer us away from the crowds and the hubbub, but that is almost impossible to do at times, especially in the middle of the day when the bus loads of tourists from Florence and elsewhere arrive for their two hour tour of this historic and interesting town. Fortunately, we had Anna and lots of time to look and admire.

The center of the city is Il Campo, a hexagonal shaped piazza and the location of the Palazzo Pubblico, which has served as the center of government for the city since the Middle Ages.

Siena, an arch rival to Florence in the 14th century, lost that struggle due primarily to the ravages of the Black Plague.

Their loss, however, is the modern tourist’s gain as the city seems almost frozen in time--and even at times seemingly crowded, is nothing like Florence and Rome which seem inundated with hordes and hordes of visitors.

The other anchor of the city is the 14th century Gothic cathedral, or as they are called in Italy, the Duomo. Anna gave us a great lecture and tour on the church, its history and city.

The interior columns are made of alternating layers of white and black/green marble, giving it a very unique and intriguing look. The dark marble is almost impossible to find these days and it was even scarce by the 15th century.

One of the Siena Duomo’s most beautiful features is its beautiful marble mosaic floors. Other medieval and renaissance cathedrals have their marble floors with their inlaid designs, but few can reveal Siena’s many elaborate and story telling pictures.

It took nearly two centuries to complete all of the pictures. For most of the year many of them are covered to protect them, but we were fortunate to visit during a short period when they are uncovered each year. Wow!

Some of our favorites included the "the Italian hill town zodiac" with Siena surrounded by its competing rivals like Lucca, Pisa, and San Gimigiagno.

Fate, with her feet planted on the orb and on the wings of wind denoting how capricious and unpredictable Fate can be.

Larry’s personal favorite was Prudence: she of the three heads, looking to the past, the present and the future, before making a decision.

The Duomo is filled with other treasures, like a Baroque Chapel with two Bernini statues.

The Picolomino Library with 15th century frescoes that look as fresh today as the day they were painted. They depict the life of Pope Pius II who was Sienese and proud of his heritiage and home. The first of the series shows Aenius Silvius Picolomino as a young man on one of his diplomatic missions. He was an admirable and far seeing man.

One of Berninni's sculpture—St. Jerome, cradling the cross as if it were a violin.

A bas relief of a Madonna and Child, now in the Duomo Museum.

One of the stained glass windows removed from the Duomo and now in the museum. It is nice to be able to see one so up close.

Only three of us opted to climb the 230 steps up to the Facciatone of the 14th century extension so the Duomo. The Scienese in the their pride wanted to build the largest church in Christendom; the Black Plague put an end to that dream. It is the best view in town.