Siena--Exploring New Places

Among the delights of the city are a seemingly infinite number of doorknockers & other ironworks.

Although it is our third sojourn in Siena, we are exploring and experiencing the city in different ways this time around.  We often go to "Il Campo" or the main piazza in town--just to enjoy the open space and marvel at the tourists and locals alike who flock to it, especially in good weather. Il Campo is dominated by the Torre di Mangia--or the "The Fat Man's Tower."

On one of our few sunny days, we took what must have been a four or five mile walk through a part of the city that was completely unknown to us and full of surprises.  We began by walking behind the Torre di Mangia and City Hall for the first time.  Our first stop was Market Square which provides a great view of the medieval Herb Gardens--the largest green space within the city walls.  This garden and meadow have been cultivated and used to feed and nourish the city since the middle ages.  It took us nearly two hours winding through twisting Siena streets, and we finally end up in the meadow, but it was worth it.

 Before we arrived in the herb garden, our walk took us to a beautiful Romanesque church--Santa Maria dei Servi.  We spent nearly an hour exploring this church which is filled with remarkable parintings, icons, and murals--many dating from the 13th and 14th centuries. Touring Italy you cannot escape seeing a lot of Medieval and Rennaisance churches (they do begin to look a lot alike), but for us, Santa Maria was quite remarkable and well worth the effort of finding it.

But our walk was only about half done, we discovered, as we went through a college campus, private property, and city streets. At times, we thought of turning back--because it often looked like we were coming to a dead end or a locked gate, but each time we were able to find the right path that led us on. Of course, the joy of the hike was enhanced by what was one of the nicest days that we have experienced so far--bright sunny blue skies and temps in the high 50's--really perfect for a walk.

Medieval Gardens with Siena in the distance

After spending time exploring the herb garden or "Orto dei Pecci" we set out to return to the town proper.  Again we were fortunate--the manager of the restaurant located within the garden was just about to shut the gate to the closest exit for our return.  Having it closed would have meant that we would have had to retrace our steps--this time uphill.  But he could see that we were "of a certain age" and was kind enough to ask us if we wanted to use the gate before he closed it-- we quickly took him up on his offer.

On Thursday we drove to Rome to pick up our friend, Anita, and learned what a haul it is to get there and back.  Even on the A-1 four-lane toll road, it’s a trek.  We had no trouble locating Anita in the airport (we did NOT stand in the parking lot holding up her name) and got back to Siena pretty tired, but happy to have reached “home.”

Her first dinner in Siena was at Nonna Gina’s, as ours had been.  Again, they served grappa and amaretto gratis at the end and we all probably imbibed a little too much.  We each had pasta with wild boar, gnocchi with pesto and shared roasted pork.  Of course, crusty bread with olive oil, roasted marinated vegetables and red table wine started our feast.

Sue and Anita peeking in Assissi

The real thrill of the week was going to Assissi.  Using Rick Steves' guide, we completed a walking tour that hit all the high spots.  The town has some fascinating ancient Roman ruins that were transformed into housing in the 12^th and 13^th centuries.  Much of the town seems to have stood still since then, at least the outside of buildings and the narrow streets.

Basilica di San Francesco

The two main basilicas—one dedicated to Santa Chiara (Clara to us) and one to St. Francesco —are inspiring.  St. Frances’s is covered with well preserved 13^th-century frescoes created by Giotto and his studio depicting the life of the Saint, and they are incredibly beautiful. The Basilica of Santa Chiara features some beautiful flying buttresses and the front is guarded by some some very interesting, very relaxed looking 14th-century lions.  We should have a contest for readers to create captions for what the lion is thinking. Let yourself go !

Since it is the beginning of Holy Week, we were witness to a service in one of the sanctuaries and heard some distant chanting, possibly by the Franciscan monks, who still live in and function from the Cloisters at San Francesco.  So beautiful.

As often happens, our visit included serendipitously finding yet another fabulous restaurant—maybe all Italian restaurants are fabulous !  You always feast on the homemade pasta, and this time we shared veal scaloppini which was to die for.  Instead of red wine we drank proseco capping off with espresso.  The handsome Italian wait staff enhanced our enjoyment as well.

Giuseppe?  Mimo?  Alas, his name escapes us

           

Sunday we returned to Pienza, by way of a beautiful drive through the Val D’Orcia.  The sun shone most of the day; the village seemed to glow; and once again we ate lunch at LaBuca delle Fate (in English, under the cover of the Fairies) where we have found the best tiramisu yet. 

We are busy packing to move at the moment (at the end of our final week in Siena) and will write about our last couple car trips (and, no doubt, meals) soon.  Our best to all !